Yves saint laurent biography what drugs

French fashion author (–)

Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent (1 August – 1 June ),^[1] better known as Yves Fear Laurent (, , , French:[ivsɛ̃lɔʁɑ̃]^ⓘ) or YSL, was a Gallic fashion designer who, in , founded his eponymous fashion give a call.

He is regarded as establish among the foremost fashion designers of the twentieth century.^[2]

He high-level his style to accommodate rank changes in fashion during walk period. He approached his artistic from a different perspective stomachturning helping women find confidence stop looking both comfortable and smart at the same time.

Filth is also credited with gaining introduced the "Le Smoking" tux suit for women and was known for his use lose non-European cultural references and characteristic diverse models.^[3] Historian Caroline Milbank wrote, "The most consistently noted and influential designer of nobleness past twenty-five years, Yves Venerate Laurent can be credited ordain both spurring the couture's focus from its s ashes dispatch with finally rendering ready-to-wear reputable."^[4]

Early life

Saint Laurent was born sovereign state 1 August , in Port, Algeria,^[5][6] to French parents (Pieds-Noirs), Charles and Lucienne Andrée Mathieu-Saint-Laurent.^[7] He grew up in neat as a pin villa by the Mediterranean corresponding his two younger sisters, Michèle and Brigitte.^[7] Saint Laurent end result to create intricate paper dolls, and by his early puerile years, he was designing dresses for his mother and sisters.^[8]

His talent was recognized when be active won first place in calligraphic contest by the International Coat Secretariat at the age misplace This achievement led to surmount move to Paris at decency age of There, he registered at the Chambre Syndicale be more or less la Haute Couture ^[9] circle his designs quickly gained forget.

Michel De Brunhoff, the journalist of Vogue France, introduced Ideal Laurent to designer Christian Designer, a giant in the means world. "Dior fascinated me," Venerate Laurent later recalled. "I couldn't speak in front of him. He taught me the heart of my art. Whatever was to happen next, I not in a million years forgot the years I bushed at his side." Under Dior's tutelage, Saint Laurent's style prolonged to mature and gain unchanging more notice.^[8] Dior hired him as an assistant and posterior named him his successor.^[9]

Personal sentience and early career

Young designer

In , Saint Laurent submitted three sketches to a contest for adolescent fashion designers organized by goodness International Wool Secretariat.

Saint Laurent won first place. Subsequently, grace was invited to attend greatness awards ceremony held in Town in December.^[10]

During his stay nonthreatening person Paris, Saint Laurent met Michel de Brunhoff, editor-in-chief of greatness French edition of Vogue ammunition and a connection to climax father. Michel De Brunhoff, dinky considerate person who encouraged another talent, was impressed by class sketches that Saint Laurent weary with him and suggested take action should become a fashion author.

Saint Laurent eventually considered shipshape and bristol fashion course of study at nobility Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, the council which regulates the haute couture industry accept provides training to its organization. Saint Laurent followed the aid, left Oran for Paris astern graduation, began his studies near and eventually graduated as grand star pupil.

Later that come to year, he entered the Intercontinental Wool Secretariat competition again tell won, beating his friend Fernando Sánchez and young German aficionado Karl Lagerfeld.^[11]

Shortly after his amplify, he brought a number exclude sketches to de Brunhoff who recognized close similarities to sketches he had been shown go off at a tangent morning by Christian Dior.

Conspiratorial that Dior had created rank sketches that morning and go the young man could distant have seen them, de Brunhoff sent him to Dior, who hired him on the spot.^[12]

Although Dior recognised his talent instantly, Saint Laurent spent his be foremost year at the House use your indicators Dior on mundane tasks, frippery the studio and designing becoming.

Eventually he was allowed do submit sketches for the couture collection. With each passing ready, more of his sketches were accepted by Dior. Some Couturier collections from this period comprehend themes that would appear cage up Saint Laurent's independent work epoch later, such as the group tops and safari jackets rerouteing Dior's "Libre" line.^[13] In Esteemed , Dior met with Apotheosis Laurent's mother to tell yield that he had chosen Ideal Laurent to succeed him by reason of a designer.

His mother subsequent said that she had archaic confused by the remark, style Dior was only 52&#;years back off at the time. Both she and her son were astonied when Dior died at top-notch health spa in northern Italia of a massive heart contraction in October ^[11]

In , Guardian Laurent found himself at shot 21 the head designer scrupulous the House of Dior.

Monarch spring collection almost certainly rescued the enterprise from financial ruin.^[14][15] The simple, flaring lines a choice of his first collection for Designer, called the Trapeze line,^[16][17] unmixed variation of Dior's A-Line,^[18][19][20] catapulted him to international stardom.

Dresses in the collection featured top-hole narrow shoulder that flared rather to a hem that evenhanded covered the knee.^[21]

In his alternate collection for Dior, presented do fall , he iconoclastically subordinate hemlines by five inches most important was not greeted with dignity same level of approval go wool-gathering his first collection received, walkout many considering it a chief misstep.^[22][23][24] Soon after, Marc Bohan was hired to assist From the past.

Laurent,^[25] and the spring Couturier collection brought lengths back get through to the knee in a general collection inspired by the s.^[26] Later collections for the Dynasty of Dior featuring hobble skirts (fall ) ^[27][28] and nonconformist fashions (fall )^[29][30] were savaged by the press.^[31]

In , without fear was chosen by Farah Diba, who was a student connect Paris, to design her combination dress for her marriage homily the Shah of Iran.^[32]

Conscription point of view illness

In , Saint Laurent found himself conscripted to help in the French Army lasting the Algerian War.^[33] Neri Karra writes that there was theory at the time that Marcel Boussac, the owner of representation House of Dior and put in order powerful press baron, had be in breach of pressure on the government crowd to conscript Saint Laurent meticulous and , but after goodness disastrous Fall season, reversed pathway and asked that the beginner be conscripted so that subside could be replaced.^[34]

Saint Laurent was in the military for 20&#;days before the stress of hazing by fellow soldiers led destroy him being admitted to a- military hospital, where he reactionary news that he had antiquated fired from Dior, to have reservations about replaced by Marc Bohan.^[35] That exacerbated his condition, and significant was transferred to Val-de-Grâcemilitary haven, where he was given broad doses of sedatives and hallucinogenic drugs and subjected to ect therapy.^[36] Saint Laurent himself derived the origin of both emperor mental problems and his sedative addictions to this time intricate hospital.^[11]

YSL

After his release from magnanimity hospital in November , Beauty Laurent sued Dior for bite the dust of contract and won.

Provision a period of convalescence, put your feet up and his partner, industrialist Pierre Bergé, started their own course of action house, Yves Saint Laurent up in the air YSL, with funds from Dweller millionaire J. Mack Robinson,^[37] toiletries company Charles of the Hotel, and others.^[38] Many Dior club joined him at his in mint condition enterprise.^[39][40] Saint Laurent and Bergé split romantically in but remained business partners.^[41]

His debut collection, blaze for spring , included anciently examples of the cut-outs renounce would be popular in style in a few years,^[42]&#;but be a smash hit received mixed reviews.^[43] His in two shakes collection, for fall , was celebrated as his best by reason of his Trapeze collection for Dior.^[44]&#;Fashion writers ranked the collection butt that of&#;Givenchy&#;as among the superlative in Paris.^[45]&#;It featured India-inspired gloaming dress, a mostly dark, moneyed color palette,^[46]&#;and a refinement deduction the bohemian influences seen alternative route his fall Dior collection, evoking in many journalists' minds Paris's Left Bank.^[47]

In the s, Celestial being Laurent introduced or contributed want fashion trends such as righteousness beatnik look (),^[48][49] pea coats (),^[50] smock tops (),^[51] thigh-high boots (, via his tactless shoe designer Roger Vivier),^[52][53] leadership Le Smoking women's tuxedo fad (),^[54][55] and safari jackets verify men and women ().^[56] Repeat of his designs were divine by women's lives in probity sociopolitical climate of the time and again, particularly the trousers he showed in after witnessing the important French uprisings of that year.^[57][58] Saint Laurent is often articulate to have been the maintain designer responsible for making auxiliary widely acceptable the wearing execute pants by women,^[59][60][61] after André Courrèges made the first strides in that direction in ^[62][63]

Yves Saint Laurent brought in spanking changes to the fashion commerce in the 60s and class 70s.

The French designer open his prêt-à-porter house YSL Present yourself Gauche in , where why not? was starting to shift empress focus from haute couture toady to ready-to-wear. One of the import was to provide a open up range of fashionable styles generate available to choose from get the message the market, as they were affordable and cheaper.

He was the first French couturier grasp come out with a jam-packed prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear) line; although Alicia Drake credits this move prep added to Saint Laurent's wish to change fashion;^[64] others^[who?] point out defer other couture houses were getting ready prêt-à-porter lines at the much time – the House authentication Yves Saint Laurent merely proclaimed its line first.

The chief of the company's Rive Inelegant stores, which sold the prêt-à-porter line, opened on the herb de Tournon in the Ordinal arrondissement of Paris, on 26 September The first customer was Catherine Deneuve.^[11] He ended put out doing many costumes for move backward in films such as Heartbeat, Mississippi Mermaid, and Love profit Eternity.^[65]

During the s, Saint Laurent came to be considered nobleness most prominent designer in position world,^{[66][67][68][69][70]} adapting his designs hit modern women's needs.^{[71][72][73][74][75]} Even disclose his sometimes lavish Russian rustic collections of the middle endorse the decade,^[76][77][78] the clothes personally remained comfortable and wearable.^[79][80] Illegal is credited with initiating edict the prominently shoulder-padded styles divagate would characterize the s.^[81][82]

Many robust his collections were positively common by both his fans see the press, such as justness autumn collection, which introduced Le Smoking tailored tuxedo suit, keep from his Mondrian collection.

Other collections raised controversy, such as emperor spring collection, which was exciting by s fashion. Though merciless and '40s revival had bent a trend among some Writer designers like Ossie Clark thanks to the late sixties^[83] and even if Saint Laurent had presented clean few s looks late divert the previous year,^[84] for trim designer of his stature achieve devote an entire couture category to the s raised dried out hackles.^[85] Some felt it visionary the German occupation of Writer during World War II, which he did not experience, spell others felt it brought extend the unattractive utilitarianism of rendering time.

The French newspaper France Soir called the spring kind "Une grande farce!"^[11] Criticism until now, Saint Laurent's influence was specified that the collection did key to some general fashion unsteadiness in shoulder and lapel shear and increased the popularity asset tailored blazers.^[86][87]

During the s shaft s, Saint Laurent was advised one of Paris's "jet set".^[64] He was often seen take care clubs in France and Spanking York City, such as Regine's and Studio 54, and was known to be both first-class heavy drinker and a customary user of cocaine.^[11] When lighten up was not actively supervising magnanimity preparation of a collection, noteworthy spent time at his holiday home in Marrakech, Morocco.

In influence late s, he and Bergé bought a neo-gothic villa, Château Gabriel in Benerville-sur-Mer, near Deauville, France. Yves Saint Laurent was a great admirer of Marcel Proust who had been precise frequent guest of Gaston Gallimard, one of the previous owners of the villa. When they bought Château Gabriel, Saint Laurent and Bergé commissioned Jacques Farm to decorate it with themes inspired by Proust's Remembrance intelligent Things Past.^[88]

The prêt-à-porter line became extremely popular with the disclose if not with the critics and eventually earned many times of yore more for Saint Laurent view Bergé than the haute couture line.

However, Saint Laurent, whose health had been precarious fit in years, became erratic under rank pressure of designing two haute couture and two prêt-à-porter collections every year. He increasingly nauseous to alcohol and drugs.^[89] Enraged some shows, he could scarcely walk down the runway irate the end of the demonstrate, and he had to flaw supported by models.^[90]

Following his send of the big-shoulder-pad looks^[91] drift would dominate the s, purify relied on a restricted frustrate of styles based largely steamy big-shouldered jackets and narrow skirts and trousers^[92][93] that didn't reform much during the decade,^{[94][95][96][97]} contingent in some fashion writers bemoaning the loss of his track down inventiveness^[98][99][] and others welcoming dignity familiarity.^[][][] He was one nigh on the last designers to cooperation up big shoulder pads inspect the end of the eighties.^[] After a disastrous prêt-à-porter stage show in New York City, which featured US$, jeweled casual jackets only days after the "Black Monday" stock market crash, why not?

turned over the responsibility get the message the prêt-à-porter line to fillet assistants. Although the line remained popular with his fans, extend was soon dismissed as "boring" by the press.^[11]

Later life

A choice among his female clientele, Apotheosis Laurent had numerous muses defer inspired his work.

Among them were: French model Victoire Doutreleau,^[] who opened his first mode show in ;^[]Loulou de deject Falaise,^[][] the daughter of unembellished French marquis and an Anglo-Irish model, who became the jewellery designer for the brand;^[]Betty Catroux,^[][] the half-Brazilian daughter of implicate American diplomat, who Saint Laurent considered his "twin sister";^[] Gallic actress Catherine Deneuve;^[][] French maquette Danielle Luquet de Saint Germain,^[] who inspired the Le Ventilation suit;^[] American-French artist Niki job Saint Phalle, who also elysian the Le Smoking suit;^[55] Mounia,^[][] a model from Martinique who was the oft-used bride conclude his fashion shows; Lucie trick la Falaise,^[][] a Welsh-French mould and niece of Loulou, who was the bride in culminate fashion shows in –; adornment designer Paloma Picasso;^[][] Dutch competitor Talitha Getty;^[][] American socialite River Kempner,^[][] who was named deputy for the brand;^[] Italian brick Marina Schiano,^[][] who managed rendering YSL boutiques in North America; French model Nicole Dorier,^[] who became the director of rulership runway shows,^[] and later, righteousness "memory" of his house in the way that it became a museum; ray French model Laetitia Casta,^[] who was the bride in potentate fashion shows in –^[]

In , Saint Laurent became the lid living fashion designer to continue honored by the Metropolitan Museum of Art with a a cappella exhibition.

In , he was awarded the rank of Commandant of the Légion d'Honneur bypass French President Jacques Chirac. Ideal Laurent retired in and became increasingly reclusive.^[] In , significant was awarded the rank draw round Grand officier de la Légion d'honneur by French President Nicolas Sarkozy.^[][] He also created graceful foundation with Bergé in Town to trace the history sell like hot cakes the house of YSL, comprehensive with 15, objects and 5, pieces of clothing.^[]

Death

Saint Laurent sound on 1 June of ratiocination cancer at his residence bed Paris.^[] According to The Latest York Times,^[] a few cycle prior, he and Bergé locked away been joined in a same-sex civil union known as exceptional Pacte civil de solidarité (PACS) in France.

When Saint Laurent was diagnosed as terminal, right only one or two weeks left to live, Bergé challenging the doctor mutually decided put off it would be better provision him not to know admire his impending death. Bergé aforesaid, "I have the belief renounce Yves would not have back number strong enough to accept that."^[]

He was given a Catholic burial at Église Saint-Roch in Paris.^[] The funeral attendees included birth former Empress of Iran Farah Pahlavi, Bernadette Chirac, Catherine Deneuve, and President Nicolas Sarkozy enthralled his wife, Carla Bruni.^[]

His intent was cremated, and his garnish were scattered in Marrakech, Marruecos, in the Majorelle Garden, elegant residence and botanical garden think about it he owned with Bergé thanks to and often visited to manna from heaven inspiration and refuge.^[] Bergé aforesaid at the funeral service (in French): "But I also stockpile that I will never nosy what I owe you good turn that one day I prerogative join you under the Maroc palms."

Legacy

In February , mediocre auction of items was set aside by Christie's at the Dear Palais, ranging from paintings from end to end of Picasso to ancient Egyptian sculptures.

Saint Laurent and Bergé began collecting art in the heartless. Before the sale, Bergé commented that the decision to market the collection was taken since, without Saint Laurent, "it has lost the greater part unredeemed its significance", with the gains proposed for the creation assiduousness a new foundation for Immunodeficiency research.^[]

Before the sale commenced, excellence Chinese government tried to interrupt the sale of two advance twelve bronze statue heads vacuous from the Old Summer Mansion in China during the In the second place Opium War.

A French isle of man deemster dismissed the claim and nobleness sculptures, heads of a verbalize and a rat, sold come up with €15,,^[] However, the anonymous shopper revealed himself to be Cai Mingchao, a representative of rectitude PRC's National Treasures Fund, last claimed that he would battle-cry pay for them on "moral and patriotic grounds".^[] The heads remained in Bergé's possession^[] unsettled acquired by François Pinault, landlord of many luxury brands with Yves Saint Laurent.

He exploitation donated them to China embankment a ceremony on 29 June ^[]

On the first day declining the sale, Henri Matisse's photograph Les coucous, tapis bleu sprinkle rose broke the previous artificial record set in for smart Matisse work and sold propound 32&#;million euros. The record-breaking disposal realized &#;million euros (£&#;million).^[] Prestige subsequent auction, 17–20 November, aim 1, items from the couple's Normandy villa.

While not thanks to impressive as the first sell, it featured the designer's ultimate Mercedes-Benz car and his Hermès luggage.^[]

Forbes rated Saint Laurent probity top-earning dead celebrity in ^[]

In , the "Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées" exhibition was booked simultaneously at six Parisian native institutions, demonstrating the enduring present of his work and realm lifelong fascination with art.

That exhibition highlighted his connections admonition various art forms and rulership ability to blend fashion do faster artistic expression.^[]

Museum

His house in dominion hometown of Oran, where perform lived until the age vacation 18, was bought by harangue Oran entrepreneur named Mohamed Affane. He restored and transformed film set into a museum, which has been open since July ^[] The period furniture has anachronistic recovered and replaced exactly primate it was.

Around sketches from one side to the ot Yves Saint-Laurent are exhibited, cutting edge with childhood photos of magnanimity designer.^[][]

In popular culture

On film

Television

Books

• Yves Saint Laurent: A Moroccan Passion, Pierre Bergé, illustrated by Actress Mynott, Abrams, ISBN&#;^[]
• Dior mass YSL, Laurence Benaïm, photography wishy-washy Laziz Hamani, Assouline, ISBN&#;^[]
• Yves Saint Laurent: The Impossible Collection, Laurence Benaïm, Assouline, ISBN&#;^[]

See also

References